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teamjimi
Joined: 06 Nov 2007 Posts: 246
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:13 am Post subject: |
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Here's my experience re: possible tampering evidence.
After following the motions, and fixing the strum, I noticed a small plastic cube had fallen out. After much searching for pics that showed this piece, and where it goes, I gave up and tried to locate where this piece should be, and after some seaching, I found the answer.
Near the bottom right corner of the guitar (when put together...top right if the guitar is in the two halves, and the neck is pointing towards your left hand), is a little notch where this piece sits. If seated properly, the square goes into a seating, with the little plastic nipple pointing outwards. If you take a look when your guitar is apart, and the plastic cube has fallen out, along the edge, you can see a little half circle where the plastic nipple should be seated.
I do have a feeling this is a low level tampering indicator, but once you reseat the plastic cube, its impossible to tell, since it comes out so easily.
For those that are curious, but havent opened their guitar, take a look at the area I mentioned, and you should see a little circle where the two halves of the body meet. The little circle should be filled with the aforementioned plastic nipple.
IF you have taken your guitar apart, in the past, and have put it back together, and you see a hole that goes right into the body of the guitar, I suggest you find the plastic cube, open the sucker back up and reseat it. |
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Kataris
Joined: 01 Sep 2006 Posts: 335 Location: Vegas
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Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 10:06 am Post subject: |
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JESUS FUCKING CHRIST HARMONIX, WHY THE FUCK ARE YOUR SCREWS SO DAMN TIGHT!?
EDIT: This post is written in extreme anger and should not make you think less of its author. _________________
Nickisimo wrote: | Yeah, that's my thoughts exactly. Then it'll be, "Well, maybe I can press the pedal with my forehead..." I'd be in a full-body cast at that rate. I can just see myself all wrapped up on a hospital bed in the dark. "I'm...a...high...way...star..." *sniffle* |
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Imperator209
Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 13
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Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you for this tutorial. I was so pissed when the down strum stopped working after owning the game for only 3 days, but thanks to this thread its working again. |
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zepp3lin526
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 104
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 5:12 am Post subject: |
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I opened my guitar the other day attempting to do this fix. I was able to loosen the tension screw but to my surprise, the microswitch barely moved. I tried to wiggle it as much as I could, but it only moved very minimally (yes the screw was loose enough, I even went as far as removing it). When I was able to move it very slightly (after considerable jiggling) I tried getting the plasitc nubs closer. When i turned the microswitch (counter-clockwise), as soon as the nubs got close, the metal on the first microswitch seemed to stop and move the metal switches together (as if strumming but not as pronounced). This prevented for the attached plastic nub on the switch from touching the other one on the strum bar. I don't know if I'm retarded or something or just incredibly non-observant, but why would this happen? After thorough inspection I saw no reason why 1) my mircoswitch would not be "VERY loose" as in the guide, and also 2) why why plastic nubs refused to touch. Any help on this would be great. I tried everything I could think of for at least an hour, and my strum bar still sucks after I tried my best getting the nubs close. _________________
Sigs are for sissies. |
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NightlyCrab
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 692 Location: Minneapolis,MN
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 5:19 am Post subject: |
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G-Rad wrote: | Thank you! My downstrum just kicked the bucket today in the middle of playing "Creep". |
Funnest song ever. (On expert at least¯\(°_o)/¯) |
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machchunk
Joined: 28 Oct 2006 Posts: 3829 Location: Pasco, WA
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 7:10 am Post subject: |
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The back of my guitar won't open up after removing all the screws from the back of the body, the neck, and the pickguard. What the hell is up with that? _________________
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Komatoze
Joined: 16 Dec 2006 Posts: 20
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Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:56 am Post subject: |
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Quick question before attempting this - Do the model numbers on the stickers on the back vary depending on which model strumbar-mechanism is used, and if so, which is the number for the model this applies to? _________________
Rock Band X-Guitar Gold Stars:
33/58
69/189 |
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russ7166
Joined: 14 Sep 2007 Posts: 328 Location: The REAL Titletown, aka Boston, MA
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Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 1:14 am Post subject: |
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machchunk wrote: | The back of my guitar won't open up after removing all the screws from the back of the body, the neck, and the pickguard. What the hell is up with that? |
did u take/unscrew the bolts that hold the strap on? u only have to take out the one by the neck, the one at the bottom doesnt come off
ok so i did the repair to fix the downstrum, but when i put it back together the whammy bar doesnt work? i havent opened it since, opening it once was a pain in the ass neway, so im just wonderin if any1 has the same problem or knows waht the problem is
EDIT: the whammy bar mysteriously started working again... |
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Nava
Joined: 03 May 2007 Posts: 90
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 2:35 am Post subject: |
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This is quite depressing as those insides dont look anything like the ones in my strat this is what mine look like and the down strumming doesnt work for me... i dont have a good enough camera to show you a picture but this fix will not work for me............... any ideas for what i should do? _________________
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sfuentes
Joined: 11 Sep 2007 Posts: 1
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Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:57 am Post subject: |
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teamjimi wrote: | Here's my experience re: possible tampering evidence.
After following the motions, and fixing the strum, I noticed a small plastic cube had fallen out. After much searching for pics that showed this piece, and where it goes, I gave up and tried to locate where this piece should be, and after some seaching, I found the answer.
Near the bottom right corner of the guitar (when put together...top right if the guitar is in the two halves, and the neck is pointing towards your left hand), is a little notch where this piece sits. If seated properly, the square goes into a seating, with the little plastic nipple pointing outwards. If you take a look when your guitar is apart, and the plastic cube has fallen out, along the edge, you can see a little half circle where the plastic nipple should be seated.
I do have a feeling this is a low level tampering indicator, but once you reseat the plastic cube, its impossible to tell, since it comes out so easily.
For those that are curious, but havent opened their guitar, take a look at the area I mentioned, and you should see a little circle where the two halves of the body meet. The little circle should be filled with the aforementioned plastic nipple.
IF you have taken your guitar apart, in the past, and have put it back together, and you see a hole that goes right into the body of the guitar, I suggest you find the plastic cube, open the sucker back up and reseat it. |
I have noticed the plastic cube as well, but it is actually a vital component to the whammy bar that is poorly placed in a way that would allow it to come out easily. If you look at the inside of the guitar, the whammy bar is by the bottom, and it has a spring affixed to its housing. The open part of this housing is where that cube goes. I've tweaked with mine and put it where the "closed" part of the housing is (by the spring) and it doesn't fall out anymore. |
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gameboy673
Joined: 02 Jul 2007 Posts: 161
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Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:27 pm Post subject: |
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So, my guitar is broken, and it will only upstrum about half of the time. How do I go about fixing this? Do I just make sure the nubs are touching and the microswitch is in alignment? _________________
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worldrunner
Joined: 17 Feb 2007 Posts: 33
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Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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I've removed all screws on the front, I'm not sure what is meant by "pick guard" I've googled dozens of different search phrases and I can't find anything actually stating what it is.
I assumed there'd be some screws by the strum bar or some obvious screws but the only screws I see on the front are the screws for the face plate. I'd assume if I had to remove those two they'd just refer to it as "face plate screws"
So, after removing all screws on the back there's still something holding it in place around the middle of the body, but I don't see any screws that I can actually remove to remedy. Is there a picture someone could snap?
The back simply won't come off after removing all screws. |
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Kanekutter05
Joined: 25 Feb 2007 Posts: 1
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Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:38 am Post subject: |
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Tamran wrote: | Vanguard wrote: | It's too bad that I just opened up my guitar to see that it's NOTHING like the one in the picture. There's no metal spacers or anything...just a normal switch that's angled in with some shitty foam underneath. A little plastic nub comes off the strum bar to make contact with the switch. Now I'm baffled. |
I've read this a few times here and there. Did it look like the picture below?
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Ok I need to pick this post back up because it just sort of died and I need help with it lol. My strum bar setup is identical to this one (2nd gen I believe) and the problem that I have diagnosed is that the plastic nubs that contact the microswitches are not long enough to work efficently. The nubs only fully depress the microswitch triggers when you really jam down hard on it (most likely why it works better when its a fast passage, because people tend to play harder when it gets faster). Any suggestions on how to make these two nubs more efficent?
Side problem, I also discovered (nothing new to anyone else I'm sure) that the foam is why the strum bar is so damn loose and unresponsive. Any ideas on how to sure up this foam as well?
Other side problem. I have the 2nd gen strum bar but my tilt sensor is the 4th gen one (check out the other stickied forum for a pic, i dont know how to post links I apologize). Anyone know how to ajust this one as well?
Thanks in advance for the help folks I (and my family who I have hopelessly addicted to both RB and GH) really do appreciate any insight you might be able to give me. |
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BriGuy
Joined: 04 Mar 2006 Posts: 1894 Location: Boston
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Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:34 am Post subject: |
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For your strum bar, you could glue a thin flat piece of plastic on the edge of the post to hit the switch sooner. After you've done this, you may want to playtest it a while before worrying about the foam. This may also solve this problem, but a thicker piece of foam glued in place could make things feel tighter.
As for yout tilt sensors, they could in theory be adjusted in the same manner as the 1st gens by taping the sensors securely at different angles to find the sweet spot. Keep in mind that one is for lefties and the other is for righties. The farther away from horizontal, the higher you'll have to tilt it up. This is simple physics so if your sensor is still unresponsive, it could be a faulty sensor. In this case swap the position of the two sensors so that the lefty one is now where the righty one was. It doesn't matter which one is which, as long as one is triggered, your OD will go off.
Hope this helps, good luck! _________________
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kdb424
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 595
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Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:50 am Post subject: |
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Another good quick fix is to put thick tape, like medical tape, on the strum bar on where it rubs the contact. That's the only fix that would work for me, and only makes the strum bar tough the contact. It does not bend it any, so it doesn't wear it out faster either. |
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